When the Atlantic Woke Up

If you surf in South Florida, you already know how much patience comes with it.

This summer was rough. For nearly six months, we really didn’t see a significant swell show up in our area. There were a few small windows here and there, but for the most part, the Atlantic stayed quiet.

You still check the forecast. You still drive by the beach. You still look at the ocean every time you’re near it. But eventually, you stop expecting much.

Then September changed that.

Hundreds of miles north of us, a cold front moved off the Mid-Atlantic coast and stalled over the western Atlantic. Strong high pressure to the north helped build a large area of northeasterly wind over the ocean, creating a rare September nor’easter and sending swell down the East Coast.

No hurricane. No major tropical system sitting offshore. Just the right weather pattern in the right place.

Eventually, that energy found us.

THE SWELL FINALLY SHOWED UP

By twilight Thursday, September 24, the first real signs of northeast swell had started making their way into Delray, and Palm Beach County was in a good position to pick it up.

The Bahamas block a lot of northeast swell from reaching areas farther south, but Palm Beach sticks out just enough to catch more of that energy. This time, it did.

And it didn’t stop at the county line. The swell pushed south past Palm Beach County, bringing rideable waves to Deerfield Beach and Pompano Beach too.

By Friday morning, there was no mistaking the change. Lines were stacked on the horizon. The National Weather Service initially forecast 4 to 6 foot surf along Palm Beach County, with later advisories calling for breaking waves reaching 6 to 8 feet in parts of the county’s surf zone.

And it didn't disappear after one good day.

The swell settled in for the weekend, delivering proper surf Friday through Sunday before leaving a few final traces behind Monday morning.

After months of looking at a mostly flat Atlantic, people were finally pulling boards back out. Parking lots filled early. People stood on the beach just watching.

South Florida felt like a surf town again.

EVERYBODY GOT SOME

For nearly five days, there was something to chase.

Thursday twilight gave us the first taste. Friday delivered. Saturday kept plenty of energy pushing through, and Sunday gave us another full day of waves before things finally started winding down. Even Monday morning held onto a few leftovers.

After nearly six months of waiting, people made time for it. Boards came back out. Plans changed. Work could wait.

There were different windows throughout the swell, and conditions changed depending on when and where you paddled out. But there were plenty of waves to go around.

You didn’t need the perfect tide at the perfect spot. You just needed to get out there.

Local surfer Robby “RAD” Peterson probably summed up the priorities of the weekend better than anyone:

“I’d like to thank the nor’easter, the stalled cold front, and my boss for believing me Friday when I said I had a family emergency. The family is the Atlantic.”

— Robby “RAD” Peterson

That’s part of what made this swell so damn good.

It wasn’t only about how big the waves were. It was about finally having waves again—and having them stick around long enough for just about everyone to get their turn.

When you live somewhere that gets consistent surf, another swell can become just another swell. South Florida doesn’t really give us that luxury.

We wait.

Sometimes for weeks. Sometimes for months.

So when the ocean finally turns on, everyone seems to feel it. You see people you haven’t seen in a while. Boards come back out of garages. People start texting each other before sunrise. For a few days, everyone’s attention goes back toward the ocean.

THE OCEAN SETTLES

By Monday morning, there were still traces of the swell hanging around, but the run was clearly coming to an end.

We really couldn’t have asked for a better way to break the dry spell. Nearly five days of swell, a full weekend of waves, and enough time in the water for just about everyone to get some.

Now we can only hope this was a sign of what’s ahead.

Winter is getting closer, the weather patterns are starting to shift, and if this swell was any indication, we could be in for a special season.

Nearly six months of waiting for five days of waves might sound ridiculous to someone who doesn’t surf.

For the people who do, it makes perfect sense.

The Atlantic finally woke up.

Hopefully, it’s just getting started.